Dual rope belay device. DescriptionThe lightweight Black Diamond ATC P.

Dual rope belay device. Figure 8 Belay May 26, 2022 · Looking to buy a belay device and don't know where to start? We made a quick pro/con list to help guide you in the right direction. V-grooves for high friction when belaying the leader or rappelling. Aug 15, 2025 · Requires a dual-rope-compatible belay device and solid anchor setup. But they can be really quirky; some devices are super intuitive, making it really easy to understand where to thread the rope and how to operate all of the parts, while other devices require finesse to operate smoothly and efficiently. Mega Jul, ClickUp, Pilot), and cam assisted braking devices (e. Thanks to introduction of belay devices the belaying Aug 15, 2025 · Find the perfect assisted braking belay device. ATC, Reverso, Piu 2), geometrically assisted braking devices (e. Such belays do not depend on the belayer to activate the device to arrest a sudden fall, but they may require the device to be fed rope to operate correctly. Another device might be used for multi-pitch sport and trad climbing and anytime a rappel is necessary. Thankfully we had enough rope to avoid a single stranded rappel here. g. Tom Pendley explains the benefits and drawbacks of two tension rope systems as an alternative. It is used in climbing and mountaineering, search and rescue, and much more. Some have more safety features added in while others are simpler to use. And in addition to the right ropes, wires and lanyards, we also use something we fondly call a “Tweezle Key. They allow you to descend a rope by sliding down it. Intuitive and easy to use, it can be used to belay a climber and to rappel. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). What is a belay device? A belay device is a piece of climbing equipment that is used by the belayer (the person managing the rope) to control the climber's rope and to act as a brake if the climber falls - stopping them hitting A belay that locks off the belayed rope automatically when a sudden force is applied. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. But selecting one of the modern tubular or assisted style belay devices is a great place to start. PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing #1 Top Rated 2,585 100+ bought in past month Oct 8, 2018 · VERSO The Petzl VERSO is an ultra-light and affordable tube-style belay device. If looked after, your choice in device will last you many years. The MPD allows you to go from lowering to raising without changing hardware. The only really useful theoretical work on how belay devices work was done by Attaway but even he suffered from some simplification and the failure to fully appreciate the importance of the rope itself. 2 mm and twin 6. The problem with Sticht plate devices was when the climber pulled hard on the rope, the plate would move down and lock against the carabiner, trapping the rope. A rappel device is one of the most important pieces of rappelling gear. Best for gym, sport and multipitch trad climbing. Our intention here is to employ a Systems Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. Locking Mechanism: Some belay devices have an auto-locking feature. Dec 11, 2020 · Rappelling Belay Device ~ The Most Crucial Of Them All! The belay devices are obviously the most important tools in the rappelling gear setup. Proper understanding and selection of these devices can significantly enhance safety and climbing efficiency Lowering requires some type of descent control device (DCD) to create friction on the rope. The standard model for dual rope rescue systems, for many decades now, has always been the Dedicated Main/Dedicated Belay (DMDB) method. 5 – 13 mm rope and certified to NFPA 1983 General Use and ANSI standards. They are generally for single rope use only, and especially popular for use at climbing walls or on bolted crags. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore . ” Ideal for the retro climber or Search-and-Rescue professional, the Black Diamond Super 8 Belay Device is a classic, old-school belay / rappel figure 8 with an updated design for smooth handling. Speaking of dual strand autotubers, the Gigajul being able to function like a normal alpine tuber is great for multipitch climbing. I find it to be very convenient, especially while managing rope at a Jul 11, 2025 · The belay device's job is to keep the climber and the rappeler safe by minimizing fall potential. The best practical tests on various belay devices are those by S. Belay device with cam-assisted blocking, optimized for lead climbing; for belaying both lead and top-rope climbers Integrated wheel allows you to smoothly and quickly pay out slack to the climber Cam-assisted blocking for a more comfortable belay When the climber falls or weights the system, the rope tightens, the wheel stops spinning, and the cam pivots to pinch and block the rope Feeding Belay loop and tie-in points: where do I attach my lanyard, my belay device and my rope? The front part of a climbing harness usually has a belay loop and two tie-in points. An Italian hitch Mar 22, 2021 · Welcome to Belay Devices: The Basics Part of a series of articles and blog posts with simple questions to aid beginners and those interested in giving climbing a go. Sep 3, 2020 · Hello, I just bought some 7. Heavier and not compatible with certain rope diameters or icy/wet ropes. For example, some of them are built for all-around use, while others have very specific functions and may not work as well as What is a Rappel Device? Rappel devices (also known as Belay Devices) are mechanical brake devices that control the speed of a rope when rappelling (or abseiling). We carry the popular Grigri and the all new Petzl RIG. The two slots on the device allow you to belay and rappel using one or two lines. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. As such, choosing the right belay device is In a nutshell, our smart belay system consists of a dual-lanyard, dual-clip design where one clip is always locked while the other one might be open. After all, as a belayer, the rope, and therefore your partner’s life will be in your hands. Used below the rappel device, the Petzl Shunt works as a rappel backup and replaces self-jamming knots like the Prusik. Examples of tube-style belay devices include the Black Diamond ATC, Petzl Verso, and Mammut Smart. This type of device also includes "guide-style" belay devices, such as the seminal Black Diamond ATC Guid e or the Petzl Reverso, which can also act as assisted braking belay devices when belaying one or two followers directly off Jan 29, 2019 · VERSO is Petzl’s lightest belay device. It is extremely advantageous and it can be used with half, twin and single ropes. Self locking function when belaying the second climber. It allows the climber’s upward progress and abseil descent to be controlled by regulating the speed of the rope passing through it. Jan 2, 2025 · Introduction For decades, the traditional mainline-belay rescue system has been a cornerstone of rope rescue operations. The 11 mm CLUTCH is the only device compatible with 10. Pinch - a new belaying experience with the PINCH, a new, versatile assisted braking belay device for use in sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and rope access techniques. You'll often need to take in or give slack on one rope more than the other to keep the ropes equally tight on your partner. Use a friction hitch backup (prusik/autoblock) for added safety. For example, one device might be used for indoor gym climbing and outdoor sport cragging. Jul 24, 2014 · With new awareness and research in rope rescue safety, experts are now questioning the effectiveness of the non-tensioned belay. Most complete and versatile belay / rappel device ever produced. A tip for stabilizing the device is to tether yourself to the auxiliary attachment hole and put your weight on the lanyard. Assisted-braking belay device: Easy to control, feed rope smoothly and aid in stopping falls. This might not seem like a big deal, but it does mean that you only have one hand on the brake strand of the rope. Great for single, half, and twin ropes Some have grooves for added friction and control Simple to set up and use Durable, affordable, and widely available Guide Mode Option Advanced tubular devices come with an extra loop so you can belay directly from the anchor—perfect Feb 12, 2024 · A folded rope pushes through the device and clips onto a carabiner, and the dual slots accept two strands of rope for standard rappelling technique. Allows main and belay lines to be mirrored, twin-tensioned, or nested in Double CLUTCH technique. Rigging plate for organisation and Adrian Berry reviews the Alpine Up - a double rope assisted belay device. Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. The rope, harness, and rappel device protect the rappeler against a fall. Sizes: Red = 13 mm, Blue = 11mm Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. This device, along with the belayer’s quick “braking hand,” ensures the rope stays taut, safeguarding the climber. The top devices for rappelling are: The Petzl PIRANA Sterling ATS Petzl Stop Designer The Edelrid Giga Jul The SQWUREL 2 The Black Diamond ATC These devices are good for different uses. Half Ropes: Belaying Belaying the Second To belay with half ropes, you'll need an 'ATC style' belay device which has two slots in it. Always tie stopper knots in rope ends until you confirm ground reach. A belay device is an essential piece of climbing equipment that allows a belayer to control the rope, therefore ensuring the climber's protection against fall. A current debate that generates robust discussion involves the similarities and differences between Dual Capability Two Tensioned Rope Systems (DCTTRS) and Single Main, Separate Belay (SMSB) rope Nov 22, 2021 · A belay device acts as a brake on the climbing rope by applying friction to it. May 19, 2022 · A locking carabiner is used to attach a belay device with two slots for rappelling 2 ropes (or in this case, one rope doubled through an anchor. Our intention here is to employ a Systems Mechanical Advantage Choices for Twin Tension Rope Systems Twin tension rope systems (TTRS) have changed the way modern rescue teams operate. Technical rope rescue has had a long, rich history of healthy debate and disagreement regarding device selection as well as techniques. We explain the different types there is and offer a description of every belay device we stock. A belay that locks off the belayed rope automatically when a sudden force is applied. Note: in the diagrams below, only the belay system is shown; the system holding the load is omitted for clarity. By threading the rope through the belay device in a specific way, it creates friction that allows you to control the speed of the rope. It increases the friction rate of the rope resulting in reducing the amount of total force which the belayer has to hold by the strength of his/hers arms. It accommodates most rope diameters: single 8. Just to review, a belay is a safety line that will catch the rescuer or patient if the mainline fails. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some The Singing Rock Shuttle is a multi-purpose belay and rappel device designed for climbers who value flexibility, reliability, and light weight. Mar 8, 2013 · My buddy Chuck Brainerd designed it as a variation on the Chouinard Micro-Belay Plates, which were really a variation on the Sticht Plate. In the 1970s, the first patented belay device was the Sticht Plate (2), named after Fritz Sticht. These parts provide a place to attach a lanyard, a belay device and a rope. Find MPD Multi-Purpose Device at CMC. Jul 1, 2014 · In light of research, use of the common non-tensioned belay is under scrutiny. Fortunately nowadays, climbers don’t like decking and belay devices Apr 21, 2019 · Dual main rope rescue: Three teenage boys with 8mm ropes. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. Dec 16, 2022 · Instead, it’s figuring out which belay device is best amongst the myriad of belay devices on the market. Aug 24, 2018 · Belay devices are experiencing a renaissance of sorts, with more innovative options on the market than ever. Operation of dual main systems There are many ways to configure parallel devices but the main consideration should be the ability of a single operator to manage two devices comfortably. Ratzenburger and the DAV (German Alpine Association). Jun 2, 2024 · 8 - Advanced Crafty Rope Trick (CRT) - If you’re using a plaquette style belay device such as a Black Diamond ATC Guide, an extended rappel lets you easily “flip the plaquette” to ascend the rope. Mar 20, 2025 · Introduction to Belay Devices Yes, there are several types of belay devices, each designed to cater to different climbing styles and safety needs. 1 to 9. With a single rope, I've come to really like the auto-locking feature of a grigri. During rappelling the device is pressed against the carabiner so that friction caused by the bent rope and the device drastically increases to slow down and stop the rope. Many assume that a rigging plate will keep things better organised and provide some separation between components. Eye-hole for releasing the self locking function if the second should fall or need to be lowered. A current debate that generates robust discussion involves the similarities and differences between Dual Capability Two Tensioned Rope Systems (DCTTRS) and Single Main, Separate Belay (SMSB) rope management approaches. The Evolution of Belay Two tension systems are the wave of the future. Depending on the type of climb, you will likely opt to use a different belay device at the gym than you would on a multi-pitch for example. The friction allows rescuers to control the descent with minimal effort. In the simplest terms, a backup for your rappel is anything that will stop the rope when you become unable to. Sep 1, 2009 · When it comes to rope rescue, one issue that seems to arise frequently involves the use of conditional versus unconditional belays. Jun 28, 2018 · Used in conjunction with a climbing rope, common dynamic belays use tube-style devices like the Petzl Verso and Omega Pacific SBG II. Keep reading to learn about belay devices and how to pick the right one based on your climbing experience and the style of climbing you enjoy. If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. You cannot use a GriGri. This article will examine pros and cons of this system, as well as alternatives that use a tensioned belay, or two-tensioned rope system (TTRS). High-efficiency pulley with integral rope grab for raising system and main line or belay line lowering systems. This is useful if you need to perform more than one rappel sequentially. Dual-rope technique is more difficult to learn and SHUTTLE BELAY DEVICEDesigned for twin, half and single ropes. Oct 14, 2010 · By two ropes are you referring to a main and belay, or two main lines such as in a dual rope highline? I would imagine nearly all department's are requiring two rope systems (main and belay). Rappelling is slowly and safely descending a rope. Belay Devices for Climbing & Mountaineering The belay device has to fit your skills and plans. Belay device is a tool by which the person providing belay (belayer) controls the rope during fall arrest of the climber. Lightweight and compact at only 65 grams. An alternative method that has seen broad adoption over the last few years is the Twin Tension Rope System or TTRS. Belay device therefore facilitates the fall arrest of the climber. What is a climbing descender and what is it used for? The belay/descender device is a crucial component in the belay chain for both climbing and mountaineering. RescueTECH carries the best quality Belay Devices by compies such as Petzl, Traverse, and ISC. Another disadvantage of the above the device rigging system is that you must keep one hand above the belay device to tend to the backup. 2 mm. They are versatile and can be used for both lead and top-rope climbing. The Two-Tensioned Rescue System (TTRS) offers a modern, efficient alternative, emphasizing load-sharing and redundancy while May 27, 2024 · A belay device is a critical tool for climbing safety, providing friction on the climbing rope to help secure and protect the climber. With its dual rope slots, Shuttle is ideal for belaying with single, half, or twin ropes, as well as rappelling on two strands – making it the perfect choice for sport climbing, trad, multipitch, and The main advantage of a dual-rope rappel is that it allows you to retrieve your rope once the rappel has been performed. A running belay is a variant of the dynamic belay in which the top anchor point is attached to a horizontal cable using a trolley. A conditional belay requires the Pinch - a new belaying experience with the PINCH, a new, versatile assisted braking belay device for use in sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and rope access techniques. Innovative belay device developed for sport climbing, easy to use, intuitive, safe, extremely lightweight and compact. We break down key differences among the Grigri, Neox, Edelrid Pinch, and more top picks. Detailed Description Belay device with cam-assisted blocking, designed for the gym and crag: feeding slack and catching falls are accomplished using standard belay techniques, always keeping a hand on the brake side of the rope easier belaying, Stabilizing the MAESTRO while belaying When the rope isn’t taut, the MAESTRO can move around inconveniently during use. Explore 50kN aluminum figure 8 descenders with CE certification, ideal for rescue, hiking, and outdoor climbing adventures. Study with Quizlet and memorize flashcards containing terms like Critical point test, Conditional belay, Tandem Prusik belay system and more. Descent control devices can range from tube-style belay devices and Münter hitches (for lighter loads), to brake bar racks and various multipurpose devices like the CMC MPD. Picking a rappelling device is a little bit different than picking a belay device. Tubular belay device: Compact, light and easy to use. 9 to 9. Dual rope systems are harder to ascend. Nov 6, 2022 · Tube-style belay devices, also known as manual or tubular belay devices, consist of one or two tubes or elongated holes. Knot placement is critical when ropes differ in diameter-keep the skinny rope on the pull side. Rappelling a Twin Rope With an ATC Belay Device: This will hopefully teach you how to rappel. You raise some great points there. Rope Access Belay Devices. Conversely, dual-rope devices can handle two ropes concurrently, offering advantages in traditional or multi-pitch climbs where managing rope drag is challenging. With this device it is possible to simultaneously belay two climbers Tubular devices are the all-rounders of the belay world. Its various application areas make the Lory your reliable companion for rope access and rescue (abseiling up to 225 kg load). Discover professional belay devices for rock climbing belaying and tower rappelling. The CT Click Up Plus (Single Rope) and CT Alpine Up (Dual Rope) are trusted semi-auto blocking device, ideal for all types of climbing. Combining the capabilities of a belay device and a pulley system, the MPD simplifies rigging operations by reducing the need for multiple pieces of equipment. GriGri, Matik, Lifeguard). Most Assisted Braking Belay Devices use a 'lever box' mechanism (enclosed with internal moving parts) whilst others use a more familiar, rigid camming system, but both increase the breaking action on the rope. Belay devices act as a May 1, 2017 · Descending a few pitches with an assisted braking device, like the GRIGRI + and GRIGRI 2, can be done with blocked rappels on a single rope, in conjunction with a pull-cord, or with two-ropes. Jul 24, 2024 · What is the difference between a single and dual-rope belay device? Single-rope devices cater to climbing with one rope and are commonly found in sports climbing and indoor gyms. Style: Tube Weight: 57 g Aug 5, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. The climbing rope is threaded into one or both of the tubes of the belay device. A belay device is a generic term for any gear that performs the belay function. Makes it idiot proof. This protects you in case you somehow lose control of the rappel. The device, plus the belayer’s quick “braking hand” (which locks off the free end of the rope), helps keep tension on the rope and helps protect the climber at the other end. Below is a guide that walks you through the decision-making process. A device used by belayers to pull a lifeline through as a climber climbs, and to stop it from moving when a climber falls. Instead of one mainline and one belay, both ropes share the load equally, providing redundancy, balance, and smooth control. You can find dozens of belay devices on the market. May 20, 2018 · CMC MPD: A Belay Device or a Pulley System? The CMC Multi-Purpose Device (MPD) is a groundbreaking piece of equipment designed to serve multiple functions in rope rescue and rigging systems. Easy to use, lightweight, and compatible with most rope types. DescriptionThe lightweight Black Diamond ATC P Belay device, a full history Vertical caving terminology and methods > Ladders, climbs and older techniques Belay device, belaying device, belay, belay plate, Sticht plate, stitch plate, ATC, ABD A very basic ATC belay device, and an auto-locking GriGri. These belay devices feature 2 slots for your rope, allowing you to belay, rappel, or climb using a two-rope system. The primary function of the descender is to provide enough friction to slow or stop the rope in the Technical rope rescue has had a long, rich history of healthy debate and disagreement regarding device selection as well as techniques. There are many belay devices available from tubular belay devices (e. Its versatility, efficiency, and reliability ALPINE UP is a complete and versatile belay / rappel device, extremely advantageous and it can be used with half, twin and single ropes. It is just not my favourite belay device for single pitch sport climbing. . The two-tensioned rescue system is perhaps the most commonly used of these, and are an operations-level skill as they may be utilized with or without a rescuer being suspended from the system(s). ( Has pictures of how to use the device on it. But while the setup looks clean, the question comes quickly in the field — what Two Tension or Not to Tension Much Ado About 4 Meters Abstract: Technical rope rescue has had a long, rich history of healthy debate and disagreement regarding device selection as well as techniques. Whil e it’s not Jun 12, 2024 · In the world of climbing, the safety of the climber hangs, quite literally, on the efficiency and reliability of their belay device. Sep 11, 2023 · On rappel in the Tetons, on this particular day I used the Grivel Scream with a Sterling V-TX 5. So how do you back up a rappel? Backing up a rappel involves using some system that will stop the rope from passing through your belay device if you become unable to do so. However, as rescue demands evolve, so must the techniques. ) May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. *should ) Assisted-braking belay An Innovation in Rope Rescue! Pulley / Rescue Belay / Descent Control The MPD allows you to go from lowering to raising without changing hardware. It connects the rappeler to the Model: DOUBLE TRI/ATTACK LORY is a robust descender and belay device. What Style of Climbi A single rope geometry assisted belay device with enhanced braking, the ATC Pilot introduces a system that provides an added level of security to your belay, while allowing for smooth rope payout. Reply reply More repliesMore repliesMore replies zani713 • Learn how to choose the best belay devices for climbing, including key factors for selecting belay equipment and climbing belay devices to ensure safety and performance. Apr 28, 2020 · Navigating the world of belay devices can be a mission. More than nine years of research and development went into the patented Multi-Purpose Device (MPD), which features major innovations in advanced technical hardware for rope rescue professionals. 5 – 11 mm rope certified to NFPA 1983 General Use, ANSI, and EN standards. The instructions are for right handed people. Dec 22, 2023 · A falling climber is an inevitability of rock climbing– messing up beta, holds breaking off outside, endless pump, and practice falls in climbing gyms are all catalysts for taking the whip. An unconditional belay will catch the load without any action being taken by the person operating the belay (the belayer). There are, however, some disadvantages: Performing a dual-rope rappel often limits the distance you can rappel. Lightweight climbers may find them slow for rappelling. 5 to 11 mm, half 7. Aug 7, 2025 · In a standard top rope setting, the belayer stands below the climber as they ascend, controlling the tension on the climbing rope and helping the climber stay secure. May 28, 2019 · Types of Belay Devices: Tube-style belay devices: These devices are the most common type of belay device used by climbers. Mar 16, 2022 · Modern Belay Techniques Modern rock climbers, ice/mixed climbers, and mountaineers universally depend on an item of gear called a belay device because they offer a considerable improvement in safety and reliability over these earlier techniques. do the opposite if you are lef… Aug 27, 2018 · Discover how Two-Tension Rope Systems transform rescue operations - load control, edge transitions, and the future of technical rescue. Jul 26, 2024 · This buying guide offers advice for anyone wanting to purchase a new belay device, or add to their existing collection. What’s a Belay Device? A belay device is climbing equipment that gives a belay to a climber. Active Assisted Braking Belay Devices Belay devices are used to control a rope by introducing friction when belaying, arresting falls, lowering climbers, rappelling or abseilling. Featuring V-shaped slots on the brake side of the device and ARC technology, the VERSO provides increased control on a wide variety of rope diameters. It works on both single and double ropes. Dual tension rope systems (DTRS) can be any one of a number of lowering systems in which both the primary and the backup system are loaded. 4mm rope. Petzl Reverso, Verso, GRIGRI A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. Feb 22, 2020 · Knowing which belay device to use for every occasion and how to operate the device properly is key for safety and success when it comes to climbing ropes. In order to belay safely, learn how to setup your belay device and practice the PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) system. Belay devices play a critical role in rock climbing, acting as a system that controls the rope during a climber’s ascent and descent. All of these scenarios would be way more sketchy if it weren’t for a belayer on the other side of the rope operating a belay device. It’s familiar, reliable, and deeply ingrained in training programs worldwide. Whatever your plans—a climbing gym, sport climbing, or a multi-pitch route—you need a belay device that you know how to use. There are so many different styles available and within each style, multiple iterations of similar designs. Jan 4, 2024 · Most climbers own 1-3 belay devices, and use different devices depending on the type of climbing, rope thickness, and location of the climb. The 13 mm CLUTCH is compatible with 12. Their special designs allow you to control the descending speed by creating friction with the rope. The specific design of the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. Feb 22, 2020 · This can be avoided by being mindful of the length of your sling. Is it like a Grigri for Trad climbers? Would you take it multipitch climbing? Does it weigh more than a housebrick? Jul 24, 2024 · What is the difference between a single and dual-rope belay device? Single-rope devices cater to climbing with one rope and are commonly found in sports climbing and indoor gyms. 9mm BD ropes to use on The Diamond (it seems a bit better than a single-rope + tag-line setup for 60m raps), and I was hoping to get some insight as to what device people like best for lead-belaying with twins. No matter which belay device you use though, you should never take your brake hand off the rope while belaying. Here, we review and recommend the best assisted-braking belay devices for rock climbing. oow6t kpaj 8arrh1 u7yvxs mb5nhl dqvuf 66 fxy ujzx sfx5